Tent and gear smells

[RVchick20]

Hello Everyone!

I am a newbie who enjoys camping and RVing but I don't mix them. I'm having a problem when I go camping with my tent and gear getting smelly. I try and let everything dry out as best I can if it gets wet. However, my tent, backpack, hiking boots, etc. still smell. Do you guys have any solutions for me or any products that you use that works great and where you get the stuff?

Thanks!

[GlitterHiker]

Re: Tent and gear smells

Welcome to the forum! Hopefully someone can help you; My tent smells like rain - which is so awesome I don't ever want that smell to go away.

[RVchick20]

Re: Tent and gear smells

I'm having a problem with mainly moldy/musty smells. Smoke is also a slight problem from cooking and fires with the smell getting on the tent and in my bags from my clothing. The smoke smell airs out a little better so it's not as severe of a problem.

When I'm not camping, my gear is packed up. I wish I could let it air out while I'm not using it but I don't have space to do that. I do set everything up right when I get to my site which does help.

Febreeze doesn't work for me either so I was wondering if there's any product specifically for camping that works well.

Thanks for your recommendations, they were good ideas!

[renodesertfox]

Re: Tent and gear smells

Here are a few more ideas to use to rid your self of musty tent smells and the like:

Cleaning

• Clean the tent by setting it up and wiping it down with a mild soap (liquid hand soap) and lukewarm water solution. Rinse thoroughly and dry completely. Never use detergent, washing machines or dryers because they can damage the tent's protective coating and seams. After cleaning, be sure the tent is completely dry, especially the heavier, double-stitched areas such as the seams, before storing or mold and mildew are likely to grow.
• Clean the tent poles with a soft, dry cloth. This is especially necessary after oceanside camping trips to remove salt spray so the poles don't corrode or stay gritty.
• Clean the zippers with a quick dip in water and then dry them off. This is especially important if you've been camping in a location with sand/dirt. If you don't clean the zippers, the sliders will wear out and eventually the teeth will become inoperable.

Seam Sealing

• I recommend use of a sealer such as Kenyon Seam Sealer 3 or McNett Outdoor SeamGrip. Be sure to check directions on the side of container for specifics before beginning the seam sealing process.
• Seam sealing should be done in a fully ventilated area. Set the tent up or lay the tent out flat. Taut seams allow for even application and penetration of the sealer.
• Decide which seams need to be sealed. For example, seams that will be exposed to rain, runoff, or ground level water are a must for sealing, while seams on uncoated nylon or mesh panels won't need treatment. You won't need to seal the seams in the roof or the factory taped seams either. We recommend sealing both floor & fly seams and reinforcements.
• Apply sealant to the inside and outside of all exposed seams. Draw or brush the sealant along the seam, spreading it evenly and liberally into all of the needle holes. Several thin layers will work better than one thick layer. Allow 30 minutes to 1 hour for the sealant to completely dry before storing the tent. Twelve hours for SeamGrip®.

Ultraviolet

• Ultraviolet damage to tent fabric is caused by excessive exposure to sunlight. While our fabrics are UV resistant, any synthetic fabric is susceptible to ultraviolet degradation. UV damage will cause nylon and polyester to become brittle and tear easily. Once your tent has UV damage, it is non-repairable, but damage can be minimized by erecting tents on sites where exposure to direct sunlight can be avoided. We also recommend that you use the rain fly even on clear days. It acts as a sunscreen to the tent. A rain fly is both easier and less expensive to replace if damaged.

Color Transfer

• Due to the nature of tent fabrics, color can transfer from darker fabric to lighter fabric if two colors are in contact over time when wet, damp, or exposed to the combination of moisture and high heat. This does not effect a tent’s performance. To prevent/minimize color transfer from occurring, always make sure that your tent is completely dry prior to packing and storage.

Storage

• Make sure the tent is completely dry, then store loosely rolled, in a dry, cool place. To prevent dust from collecting on the tent, cover it with a cloth. This allows the nylon/polyester fabric to breathe.
• Ideally, the tent poles should be stored in their fully assembled state. This reduces the tension on the shock cord, prolonging its life. I recommend that the tent bag be used only as a carry sack and not for storage.

General Tips:

• Use a ground cloth under the tent whenever possible. If you choose, Eureka! has pre-cut sizes. If not, trace the tent on the ground cloth and cut smaller than the tent footprint to avoid having it act as a water collector. Ground cloths are easier and less expensive to replace than torn tent floors.
• Try not to wear shoes inside your tent.
• Bring a small rug or mat to put inside the tent door to wipe off mud and catch sand.
• Sweep the tent floor daily to prevent damage from stones.
• Do not keep food inside the tent. Hungry critters will chew through the tent fabric in search of a snack.

GET CAMPING & HAVE FUN!:cool:

[renodesertfox]

Re: Tent and gear smells

Sleeping Bag Maintenance, ah gee, do I have to- yep especially indawoods!

Keeping your sleeping bag clean assures comfort—but make sure you clean it correctly, to assure top performance. Hand-washing is safest, though today’s sleeping bags can be machine-washed. Never dry clean your sleeping bag. Unless the attached tag says so, then before you buy that one, choose another because that dry-clean only bag will be very expensive!

To limit the number of times you wash your sleeping bag, try using a sleeping bag liner to protect the inside from body oils, sweat and moisture. Spot clean the outside. You can buy a liner or make your own from a light blanket.

Some bags can be machine washed:
To machine-wash a down or polyester-filled sleeping bag, use a front-load machine set on the coolest setting. Use soap, not laundry detergent, and run the bag through a second clear water rinse cycle. Then put it in the dryer, also on the coolest setting.


Hand-wash your sleeping bag in the bathtub. Work it around in soapy water until it’s soaked. Drain the tub, then swish your sleeping bag through clear water until it’s thoroughly rinsed. Don’t pick up the wet bag; the material may be damaged by its own weight. Instead, drain the tub, loosely roll the bag and lightly squeeze out most of the water.


Now you can hang your bag over a clothesline or lay it out to dry—which may take several days. Keep moving it and puffing it with your hands until it is dry all the way through, preventing mold and mildew. Store your bag loosely. Depending on the material in your sleeping bag a heavy duty washing machine on the gentle cycle and air drying in the heavy duty dryer might be more easier...but the greatest satisfaction is handwashing! Just my $0.02 worth of fun. Thanks for looking and a great night's sleep outdoors!