Coleman used to make some pretty cool liquid fuel heaters. These were catalytic heaters, so theoretically, you could use them inside a large tent.
Around here where many people hunt in cold weather and ice fish, there are many of these available now at garage sales, thrift stores, and Craigslist. Some are in excellent condition and some don't work, but most are very easily repaired.
Last year, I bought one of these heaters and found it full of kerosene. I put new fuel in it and struggled to make it work - extra heavy priming, you name it. Nothing. So I bought another one - this one didn't work either. What a frustrating disappointment.
I was ready to toss them, but then I read an article on kerosene catalytic heaters that people use in their homes and learned about the maintanance that is needed.
Low and behold, the solution was simply too easy. There is a wick inside that needs to be trimmed or replaced.
Because there are several different models, I won't try to post photos or it will confuse some readers. Let me just say that you have to stabalize the heater so it won't move. Then grab the top dome with the screen and the white fiberglass underneath (usually it is all full of soot). Twist it counter clockwise. It will usually be difficult to do and if you look at the unit, you won't believe it can come apart, but it will.
Once you get the dome off, you will see the tail of the wick hanging out that goes into the fuel can. You need to get that off too. Grab the metal wick holder by the base and give it a twist - ya, I know it looks like it is a single piece of equipment, but it will come off too.
THEN, you will quickly notice that the top of the wick is black and hard and contaminated with soot. Take a sharp scissors and trim off about 1/4" of the wick to trim off the gunk. Pull the wick up to compensate for what you trimmed off, and re-assemble.
You can clean the dome by pouring about 4 ounces of denatured alcohol on top of the dome. I use HEET automotive fuel system cleaner because it is alcohol and it is cheap. Pour it thick and all over the dome and light it. The alcohol burns hot and removes the carbon from the dome. It works surprisingly well and the dome will be mostly white when you are done.
To use the heater after assembly, fill it with fuel, then turn it upside down until a fuel wet spot about six inches in diameter forms on the dome. Turn the stove upright, turn the lever to "high", and pour some denatured alcohol on the dome as a primer. Light the dome and let the flame burn out over the next several minutes. At that point, your heater should be working. It will gradually get hotter over the next hour or so.
YOU HAVE TO USE COLEMAN FUEL. I tried unleaded car gas. I tried kerosene. Sorry. These cheaper fuels work for maybe one use - or not even, then the impurities in the kerosene and the addditives in the car gas gum up the wick and it stops working. It does work like a charm with Coleman fuel.
If somebody somewhere along the line used leaded gas, that will ruin the catalytic plate and the heater won't work.
I did test with a carbon monoxide tester and found that these old heaters DO work and do not produce any detectable carbon monoxide.
These are really nice heaters. Per BTU heating warmth, liquid Coleman fuel is much more economical to use than bottled gas, making these old units warmer and more economical to use than Mr. Heater or Buddy heaters.
Around here where many people hunt in cold weather and ice fish, there are many of these available now at garage sales, thrift stores, and Craigslist. Some are in excellent condition and some don't work, but most are very easily repaired.
Last year, I bought one of these heaters and found it full of kerosene. I put new fuel in it and struggled to make it work - extra heavy priming, you name it. Nothing. So I bought another one - this one didn't work either. What a frustrating disappointment.
I was ready to toss them, but then I read an article on kerosene catalytic heaters that people use in their homes and learned about the maintanance that is needed.
Low and behold, the solution was simply too easy. There is a wick inside that needs to be trimmed or replaced.
Because there are several different models, I won't try to post photos or it will confuse some readers. Let me just say that you have to stabalize the heater so it won't move. Then grab the top dome with the screen and the white fiberglass underneath (usually it is all full of soot). Twist it counter clockwise. It will usually be difficult to do and if you look at the unit, you won't believe it can come apart, but it will.
Once you get the dome off, you will see the tail of the wick hanging out that goes into the fuel can. You need to get that off too. Grab the metal wick holder by the base and give it a twist - ya, I know it looks like it is a single piece of equipment, but it will come off too.
THEN, you will quickly notice that the top of the wick is black and hard and contaminated with soot. Take a sharp scissors and trim off about 1/4" of the wick to trim off the gunk. Pull the wick up to compensate for what you trimmed off, and re-assemble.
You can clean the dome by pouring about 4 ounces of denatured alcohol on top of the dome. I use HEET automotive fuel system cleaner because it is alcohol and it is cheap. Pour it thick and all over the dome and light it. The alcohol burns hot and removes the carbon from the dome. It works surprisingly well and the dome will be mostly white when you are done.
To use the heater after assembly, fill it with fuel, then turn it upside down until a fuel wet spot about six inches in diameter forms on the dome. Turn the stove upright, turn the lever to "high", and pour some denatured alcohol on the dome as a primer. Light the dome and let the flame burn out over the next several minutes. At that point, your heater should be working. It will gradually get hotter over the next hour or so.
YOU HAVE TO USE COLEMAN FUEL. I tried unleaded car gas. I tried kerosene. Sorry. These cheaper fuels work for maybe one use - or not even, then the impurities in the kerosene and the addditives in the car gas gum up the wick and it stops working. It does work like a charm with Coleman fuel.
If somebody somewhere along the line used leaded gas, that will ruin the catalytic plate and the heater won't work.
I did test with a carbon monoxide tester and found that these old heaters DO work and do not produce any detectable carbon monoxide.
These are really nice heaters. Per BTU heating warmth, liquid Coleman fuel is much more economical to use than bottled gas, making these old units warmer and more economical to use than Mr. Heater or Buddy heaters.
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